SPRING BREAK THRASH-O-RAMA Day 6- It's almost over

Spring break is coming to a close and I have to go back to college.....well, umm maybe not.   I would be like Jethro going to college.

I'm a thinker ya know......

I am going to have to go back to work, if nothing else, so I can rest.
I feel like I got quite a bit accomplished.  I still have a "To Do" list, but it is getting more manageable every day.  The "Have To Finish" list is getting really short, the rest is purely cosmetic and ergonomic.
I will post pics of the water heater install today.
I have a closet that is pretty small and would work well for a utility/hot water heater closet.  I trial fit the heater in the closet and decided this would be the ideal spot.  There were a few fit and finish issues with this closet.  I noticed that there was a piece of trim that looked like it had been wet, so I started to investigate.

Well, as I suspected the trim was there from the factory to hide their miscalculations.  There was a 1 inch gap between the refrigerator wall and the access door wall.  This basically allowed water to leak into the closet from the outside, if it rained and blew in the louvers.  Nice.

I decided to build a free standing support to hang the water heater on anyway, since it is 35 lbs. empty.  So, I removed the trim and cut a couple of 2x2's and screwed them to the structure.

I went ahead and added some caulking to the boards and installed them wet.  I will cover this with a sheet of 1/2" plywood.  This will give me solid structure to screw the heater to.

Here is a picture after it was caulked in and painted.  It could use another coat, but I need to get rolling.  It's a closet.......stop worrying about it.

Root is such a hack.......

I figure if anything is gonna kill this thing, it will be vibration.  So, I figure I will mount it in rubber.  I had bought some rubber isolator pads from Bob Drake for one of my hot rod projects.  These things are pretty cool.  I use them on everything.

I have struggled with where and how to route the exhaust on this deal.  I wanna make sure that the exhaust looks in place for the roof line.  I even looked at routing the exhaust over to the furnace exhaust and tying it together.  The problem was, I would lose a cabinet, so I opted not to do that.

This was going to take some ciphering.  This was on a radius and I had to compensate for the angle of the exhaust tube.  Let's see, that will probably take some geometry, some algebra, maybe some calculus.  Well, let's see, I hate math so those are out.  I'll guess.

There is a shelf inside the closet that I will need to go through before I can punch the hole in the roof.  I could remove it, but I wanted something to attach the exhaust stack to. 

After staring at the roof line and measuring 1,568 times, I closed my eyes and drilled through the bottom skin.  I grabbed my trusty hole saw and hoped for the best.  I was pleasantly surprised to see that the hole came out in a good location.  Now to test fit everything.
The unit comes with an exhaust stack built specifically  for this unit.  It has a cone built in to help diffuse the gasses and to help muffle it. I wanted to retain this tube, but it needed a large clearance from other combustible materials.  I decided to install double wall chimney flute.  It has a zero clearance rating, meaning it can be touching basically anything combustible, without fear of ignition.
Fire Marshall Bill even gives me the thumbs up.

In essence, we will have a 3 layer tube pawing through the shelf and the roof line.   But, because I worry too much, I decided to add the stainless pass through that came with the kit.  I will mount this on the bottom of the shelf.  It has a smaller hole inside, that is the same exact diameter as the exhaust tubing.  This centers up the tube in the chamber, creating a 1/2 inch gap all the way around.  I attached the flange to the stove pipe and screwed it to the shelf.

I left it hanging down so I could show you the way it came out.

This is what it looks like installed.  

A picture of the inner roof panel where it is installed.  A little bit of high temp caulking should be sufficient.

Here is  what the unit looks like in it's natural state.  The tricky part is going to be sliding this all up through the stove pipe, hold the rubber mounts in place, while running the screws in.

Who's yer daddy?  That's what I am talking about.  I just have one more issue to remedy.  I need a power source for the fan and igniter board.

It just so happens that I have an empty receptacle above the refrigerator in a cabinet.  I punched a hole in the cabinet and solved that quickly.

This is what it looks like with the vent cover installed.  I am looking for a better looking cover, but for now, this one will have to suffice. I ended up with roughly about .015" clearance, which makes me extremely happy, that will minimize the areas that could leak.  I'll put a nice fillet seal around it and everything will be peachy.

You can see the profile of the vent on the roof line.  The ginormous vent in the front is the factory installed furnace.  Just for reference, I will add the pics of how meticulously they installed the furnace flute.

Factory installed with loving hands.

I still need to install the water lines and the copper for the propane, which I should be able to tee off from the refrigerator.  But for now, this will have to do, because I am out sick.....ugh.