I have been dreading getting this thing going. I knew I had to find out if it worked. The previous owners said everything worked. Funny, so far nothing has. I figured as much.
The dreaded test.
I rigged up a propane tank and regulator to the refer, to start my test. I used a digital thermometer that had the humidity gauge and temp. I got it fired up pretty quick and it ran for 8 hours. The temp only dropped to 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Not too good. So, I did some reading and found the service manual online. The internet is a beautiful thing.
I laid in bed pondering this for a while. I had pretty much decided to buy a new fridge, just to expedite things. I started thinking about the design of the ammonia absorption fridge and came to the conclusion that if it is heating, it should be cooling. I jumped up out of bed at midnight and went out and cleaned the orifices and adjusted the flame height. I reset my timer and stuck the thermometer back in the fridge and went back to bed.
I laid in bed all night wondering if the trailer would burst into flames and all of my work thus far would have been in vain.
I have the old bunsen burner style gas valve, so I was a little unfamiliar with this setup. I jumped up first thing in the morning to check the thermometer. What would it read? The same? Worse?
How does 32 degrees grab you? I left it on max for 24 hours just to see what happened when the noon sun started warming things up. It never budged.
I win.
I noticed a propane smell in the cabinets while I was running the refer. That scares me. So I started looking at the simple things like the area around the flue. On newer Rv's they have a roof mount vent to get rid of the spent gasses. This one has a shelf right above the flue that keeps all of the propane inside the trailer. Not good.
I spent a few hours caulking all the seams around the back of the refer cabinet to ensure that no fumes could get into the cabinets and closets. I added a sheet metal drip pan below the fridge to keep out the rain and to help seal up the giant void left behind by the manufacturer. I then decided to order up a small efficient computer fan to help move air across the cooling fins and to help push the fumes out of the cavity. This is not a new idea, but a fairly cheap way to help alleviate a couple of issues.
I was able to find a vendor on ebay selling 12V adapters that matched the requirements of the fan. I think I paid 4 bucks for this adapter. It is designed for CCTV cameras, but I don't care.
I bought a couple of high volume fans from a computer parts house. I think this one ran a whopping 8 bucks. I bought 2 of these as well. Word of advice.....don't start these fans while they are teetering on the back of your refrigerator coils. The blades explode on impact. Glad I bought two.
I made some stand offs out of stainless fuel line tubing I had laying around. I made them about 1.250" long. I would have made them longer, but the #8 screws maxed out at 3.00". I am sure I could have found some if I had ventured into town on Monday, at some speciality hardware company, but I am pretty lazy.
I had an old 5 Amp breaker laying around, so I installed it just in case. I really need about a 2 amp, but I will have to look for one. I just fabbed up a hokey bracket to mount my breaker in. Kinda cheesy, but you can't really see it.
It draws quite a bit of air across the coils. I added the provisional wiring for another fan, since I already had it. I may add another fan if I can find one local.